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A fascinating peek inside America's colourful textile mills and factories

In his latest series Textiles, New York City-based photographer Christopher Payne unveils the hidden world of textile mills and factories across America.

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All images courtesy of Christopher Payne

All images courtesy of Christopher Payne

Picking out the architectural symmetry of the internal spaces, something he's renowned for, what's refreshing about this particular project is that he often includes the factory workers within the shots; revealing the skill and expertise behind everything that's produced. It's a step in a new direction for Payne, as his usual work focuses on the documentation of the obsolete; instead of this celebration of craftsmanship and small-scale manufacturing that are persevering in the face of global competition and evolutions in industrial processes.

Trained as an architect, Payne is fascinated by design, assembly, and the built form. His first book, New York’s Forgotten Substations: The Power Behind the Subway, offered dramatic, rare views of the behemoth machines that are hidden behind modest facades in New York City. His second book, Asylum: Inside the Closed World of State Mental Hospitals, which includes an essay by the renowned neurologist Oliver Sacks, was the result of a seven-year survey of America’s vast and largely shuttered state mental institutions.

Payne’s new book, North Brother Island: The Last Unknown Place in New York City, explores an uninhabited island of ruins in the East River. Payne’s photographs invoke the former grandeur of the site over different seasons, capturing hints of buried streets and infrastructure now reclaimed by nature, while also providing a unique glimpse into a city’s future without people.

Interior of a textile mill with rows of grey garments hanging from overhead beams and white structural columns running down the length of the factory floor
Overhead view of an industrial textile factory floor with bright orange machinery, spools of fabric, and metal structural beams in a large warehouse space
Industrial textile factory floor scattered with bright blue and green recycled plastic fibres, featuring vintage machinery and wooden structural beams
A textile factory worker in a blue shirt operates a large industrial pressing or finishing machine, with natural light streaming through tall windows and portraits pinned to the worn green and white walls behind her.
Factory worker unrolling a bolt of burgundy fabric in front of shelves stacked with hundreds of spools of coloured thread and yarn
Rows of white thread spools mounted on vertical bars in a textile mill factory, viewed from above showing the industrial manufacturing setup
Industrial textile machinery with large cylindrical rollers and mechanical components alongside spools of purple and white fabric in a mill workshop with natural light from windows
Vibrant crimson fabric fills an industrial space with weathered green walls and large windows in a textile factory
Factory worker inspects green and white checked fabric on a large industrial loom inside a textile mill
Fabric swatches in pastel shades of pink, blue, green, peach and cream hung on rails in a textile factory
A textile factory worker in a turquoise shirt operates machinery amongst rows of white spun yarn on wooden frames in an industrial mill space
Large pale yellow fabric rolls with dark metal spindles in a textile mill, photographed from above showing industrial machinery and factory architecture
Overhead view of industrial textile machinery with metal pulleys, gears and glass-fronted chambers arranged in symmetrical rows within a factory workspace
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